Cruise Ship Review

Gen-Xers pump iron and practice yoga alongside baby boomers wrapped in seaweed. Nearby, kids careen down a yellow water slide while their parents soak up sun, reggae music, and tropical drinks. Seniors vie for shuffleboard titles and perfect their golf swings while diaper-toting tots explore the kids' club.

Welcome aboard the multi-faceted Norwegian Jewel.

With its newest ship, launched in August 2005, Norwegian Cruise Line continues to refine the "freestyle cruising" concept that's become its corporate motto. Over 2,300 passengers enjoy the freedom to dine where, when and with whom they wish. Casual is the operative word here, with formal night optional.

This review is part of the seven-night Western Caribbean itinerary we experienced that included Roatan, Grand Cayman, Ocho Rios, and Great Stirrup Cay, NCL's private island in the Bahamas. The Jewel also sails a seven-night Eastern Caribbean itinerary with stops in Antigua and St. Thomas, 7- and 12-night Mediterranean cruises, and a 12-night cruise featuring the Greek Isles and Egypt.

The Jewel is a floating test for land-based amenities and services like high-rent luxury villas, martini and champagne bars, interconnecting family friendly cabins, and an electronic restaurant reservations system. No doubt, Norwegian Jewel, at least in the big-ship marketplace, is the closest thing you'll ever get to a land-based resort vacation.

Fully loaded with so many land-based bells and whistles, the Jewel is at its best at night with passengers dispersed among its numerous restaurants, lounges and entertainment venues. In an effort not to miss any of the eateries, lounges and countless activities, I found myself rushing about the ship and frequently checking my watch. It took a conscious effort for me to slow down, block out the hubbub, and simply enjoy the splendid Caribbean views from our cabin balcony.

Ultimately, there's much about the Jewel that sparkles, most notably the dining options, amiable crew, appealing staterooms and impressive fitness center. Though numerous restaurants, an electronic reservation system and streamlined disembarkation help with crowd control, there are times (muster drill, tenders and shore excursions), when you feel the presence of your fellow shipmates. Happily, there are quiet places to read a good book and enjoy the splendid views. Deck 7 offers outdoor seating when the pool deck is packed. The library is almost always empty, and Spinnaker Lounge is sunny and quiet by day. By dinner time, the spa empties out, and you can savor the sunset from a hot tub or chaise.

Dining

The Jewel's 10 dining venues offer open seating, flexible hours, and excellent service. An electronic reservations system keeps things running smoothly -- we made reservations for the week at the reservations desk at reception upon embarkation and never had to wait more than a few minutes to be seated (reservations can also be made by phone). It's best to book early for the specialty restaurants, especially for large parties or for the smaller venues like Teppanyaki. Cancellations after 5 p.m. incur a $5 fee.

Surrounded by so many dining venues, pizza, it's easy to forget that 24-hour room service is also available (except the morning of disembarkation). From 6:30 a.m. to 10 a.m., you can enjoy continental fare like juice, fresh fruit, muffins and cold cereal. Lunch and dinner options include perennial favorites like chicken Caesar salad, sandwiches and plus kid pleasers like hot dogs and grilled cheese sandwiches.

Tsar's Palace and Azura, the two main restaurants, share dinner and lunch menus with daily selections. Healthy "Cooking Light" selections are always available, as are Caesar salad, chicken, salmon, vegetables and baked potato. At breakfast, waiters outnumber diners at the ornate Tsar's Palace, decorated in royal hues of burgundy, green and gold with chandeliers, marbled pillars and faux Faberge egg balustrades. With its pop art, wood veneer and soft lighting, the smaller Azura, a sleeker and more contemporary venue, is a far more appealing space. The Captain's Gala Dinner menu with broiled lobster tail was our best no cover-charge meal.

Blue Lagoon, a pleasant food-court style venue overlooking the atrium, is another option for breakfast and lunch. Garden Cafe and the Great Outdoors, indoor and outdoor buffets, are good for a quick breakfast or lunch, but less appealing for dinner. Nice touches include self-serve coffee machines that brew decaf and regular lattes and cappuccinos, and soft-serve ice-cream dispenser. For morning juice and pastry or a burger or hot dog lunch, the poolside grill is quick and convenient.

Cagney's Steak House ($15 cover charge), with "cowhide" chairs and western decor, serves filet mignon, strip loin, New York cut, boneless rib eye and T-bone steaks.

Chin Chin ($10 cover charge) the main area of an Asian fusion complex, offers starters like dim sum and satay, followed by miso or tom yum soup, and entrees like chili mussels in lemon grass-coconut milk, chicken curry and pad thai. Knives and salt shakers go flying at the hibachi-style Teppanyaki. Entrees ($10 to $15) include miso soup, ginza salad, vegetables and garlic fried rice, ice cream, or fresh fruit. California and New York rolls, barbecued eel and flying fish roe are among the selections at the Sushi Bar ($2 per order, $8 to $13 for sushi and sashimi combos).

NCL's signature restaurant, Le Bistro ($10 cover charge), may not have the original Impressionist art found on Norwegian Dawn, but it still gets our vote for best restaurant with a cover charge. The service is especially attentive; the food presentation memorable. Don't miss the decadent chocolate fondue with fruit served in a half pineapple.

In Mama's Italian Kitchen, you can create your own pizza or pasta with sauces ranging from traditional (tomato, Alfredo and Bolognese) to haute (shrimp with lemon and basil, and smoked salmon with white wine cream and chives). Another no-fee venue, Tango's Tex-Mex and Tapas Bar & Restaurant, serves good margaritas and south-of- the-border fare like hot and cold tapas, prawn fajitas, and sopapillas.

The hip Java Cafe in the atrium brews fabulous coffee drinks for a fee -- cappuccino, espresso, frozen coffee -- served with delectable pastries.

Public Rooms

There's nothing subtle about the Jewel's public rooms. Imagine "Finding Nemo" meets "Austin Powers." After a couple of days of sensory overload, your brain adjusts and the decor starts to look normal. Smoking is not permitted in the show lounges or indoor restaurants, but it is allowed in the casino, corona cigar club and outside decks. Fortunately, there are helpful directories inside and outside the three elevator banks.

Deck 7 is home to the bustling shore excursion and reception desks, Internet cafe, art and photo galleries, and enormous Galleria and Port of Call retail space for duty-free items. The Crystal Atrium features a trendy Java Cafe and elegant white baby grand piano.

The Internet cafe, open 24 hours a day, features eight computer stations. After an account activation fee of $3.95, the basic charge is .75 per minute. Frequent users do better with package rates: 250 minutes for $100 or 100 minutes for $55. Shorter plans the last day of the cruise include 15 minutes for $8.25 and 30 minutes for $12.

The Library's wood burl shelves are lined with a good selection of self-help, sports, travel, science, history, fiction and children's titles in multiple languages. Passengers can check out three books at a time (except travel and reference). Despite stunning views, gold decor, floor globe and orchids, most guests find the straight backed, box-shaped chairs simply too uncomfortable.

Cabins

From standard insides to balcony suites, interconnecting cabins to luxurious villas with butler and concierge service, the Jewel offers a tremendous variety of living quarters. All cabins are furnished with cherry wood finishing, television, refrigerator, safe, duvet, bath with shower and hair dryer.

In-cabin Internet access is available with an Ethernet cable (our connection wasn't working initially and had to be established through the Internet manager). TV programming includes a good selection of movies, as well as CNN, TNT, Cartoon Network and ESPN. Ship-to-shore calls from the cabin to the U.S. run $5.95 per minute. Mobile phones are another option, thanks to a roaming Cingular network, with rates determined by home carriers. Newspapers can be delivered to your cabin for $3.95 per day.

Suites and penthouses on Decks 8, 9, 10, 11 and 14 (272 square ft. and up) feature glass doors with private balcony. Most suites have a queen-size bed, separate living area with dining table, bath with shower and tub, and concierge service. Oceanview staterooms with balcony on Decks 8, 9 and 10 (200 - 205 square ft.) offer two chairs on the private balcony. Oceanview staterooms on Decks 4, 5, and 8 (150 - 161 square ft.) include a picture window or porthole.

Our balcony stateroom on Deck 10 was cheerful and welcoming, decorated in vibrant Caribbean hues. Bright blue and fuscia turtle motif bedspreads, an orange and purple love seat, and blue drapes combine to create an appealing space. Mirrors outside the bath, beside the closet, and above the beds help create a spacious feel. A pair of plastic chairs on the balcony is practical, but unexciting.

With our luggage tucked under the twin beds, we found the closet space sufficient with a convenient safe, shelves and shoe storage. The well-stocked mini bar had everything from Veuve Clicquot Champagne to Wild Turkey and Grand Marnier. Reading lamps over each bed worked well, but the desk lighting proved inadequate. A member of the crew arrived with a desk lamp shortly after I called in a request.

The tropical theme continues in the well-designed bathroom, with shell-shaped lamps and sea foam green floor tile. Separate toilet and shower areas (with a handy shampoo and soap dispenser, and retractable clothes line for wet bathing suits) flank a central white sink and vanity with ample shelf space. NCL-brand amenities are limited to a shoe mitt, shower cap and moisturizing lotion. Kudos to our amiable housekeepers who never failed to freshen the cabin, turn down the beds and fill our ice bucket.

Families can choose from some 300 interconnecting cabins in a range of categories from standard insides to suites. Different grades of cabins can be linked to create two- to five-bedroom areas for immediate families, extended families and family reunion groups.

If you're craving a butler and concierge, as well as your own piano, hot tub and silver toothbrush holder, look no further. The Jewel offers 10 stylish courtyard villas and two 5,000 square foot garden villas. In addition to the ritzy decor and furnishings, the luxe digs share a lounge with Internet access, a private sun deck, and a gorgeous central courtyard featuring a retractable roof, rattan sun beds, swimming pool, hot tub, treadmill and Stairmaster.

Entertainment

Boredom is not an option onboard Norwegian Jewel. The challenge is choosing from among numerous daytime activities that include foreign language, cooking and dancing classes; trivia contests; lectures on handwriting and Jamaica; perfume seminars; bingo; art auctions; arts and crafts; volleyball, ping pong, tennis and human chess play; and checkers, bridge and Scrabble. Not to mention the martini clinic and margarita tasting for $15. The Stardust Theatre is the main entertainment venue for nightly Broadway and Vegas-style productions, comedy and magic acts, and a Cirque du Soleil-style aerial thriller, Cirque Bijou. The fearless troupe includes gymnasts, acrobats and bungee jumpers. They played to a packed house.

In addition to the evening extravaganza, live guitar and piano music is performed at various venues. For night owls, there are late theme parties like a sock hop, Caribbean party, and disco dance. Karaoke is available both at the futuristic FYZZ Lounge and the private red, green or blue karaoke rooms at $40 per hour (though we never spotted any takers). An additional $15 per person buys soft drinks, beer, wine and cocktails. Passengers vie for a free cruise and their name in lights during a "Star Search"-style contest.

Among the 13 bars and lounges is a new Bar Central trio consisting of a Champagne and wine bar with pink art deco neon sign and bubbly water feature; a martini bar with zebra-striped chairs and large screen displaying James Bond-like female silhouettes; and a whiskey and beer pub. Despite the stylish watering holes, some passengers grumbled about the cost of bar drinks. A beer runs $3.95 to $4.50. The cocktail of the day is $8. Fruit smoothies cost $9 with alcohol, $6 without. The cheapest glass of chardonnay, St. Supery from Napa, costs $7.

The Jewel Club Casino offers gaming lessons, and slot machine, blackjack and poker tournaments. Passengers can also watch a big screen TV and place bets. Games include one penny to $100 slot machines, baccarat, roulette and blackjack.

From adventurous canopy zipline tours to sedate sightseeing trips, shore excursions cover all the bases.

Fitness & Recreation

The popular pool deck has two pools, four whirlpools with colorful awnings, and a bright yellow waterslide for kids.

Body Waves Fitness Center, Deck 12, is open 24/7 for gym rats. With glorious ocean views from floor-to-ceiling windows and individual televisions, you can almost forget you're exercising. The fitness center sports the latest weight machines, cardiovascular equipment and free weights, plus a separate room for fitness classes. Aerobics and stretch classes are gratis; step, Pilates, yoga and cycling sessions cost $10.

Bora Bora Health Spa & Beauty Salon, Deck 12, is a tranquil place to enjoy exotic treatments at exotic prices, from algae detox and lime and ginger salt glows to coconut rubs and milk ritual wraps. Robes and towels are supplied; bring your own shower sandals and toiletries.

Other recreational options include a jogging and walking track, and a versatile sports deck with bleacher seating that accommodates basketball, volleyball and tennis. There are also two golf driving nets, a shuffleboard court, ping pong tables and a pair of life-sized "Alice & Wonderland"-like chess sets.

Family

Norwegian Jewel rolls out the welcome mat for families with amenities like interconnecting cabins, a kids-only pool and water slide, and an appealing Splashdown Kid's Club. In addition to a children's menu, young passengers can enjoy the Kid's Corner buffet with mini stools, low tables, and kid-pleasing fare like hot dogs and chicken nuggets. Families can gather in the Card Room for a game of Monopoly or Clue, sing together during family karaoke night, and compete in a "Family Feud" game show.

The complimentary Kid's Crew program is organized by age group: Junior Sailors (2 - 5), First Mates (6 - 9), Navigators (10 - 12) and Teens (13 - 17). In addition to the play room, the Splashdown Kid's Club features a kid cinema and video arcade. Age-appropriate activities range from lego-mania and silly songs for the younger crowd to a sports afternoon and survivor night for tweens. Club Underground is the teen hangout, with a juice bar, touch-screen jukebox, Microsoft Xbox gaming consoles, disco nights, socials, and movies.

Unlike many other at-sea children's programs which start at age 3, NCL takes tots as young as 2. Appreciative parents are issued beepers for diaper changes and other emergencies. Group babysitting is available between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m., and 10 p.m. and 1 a.m. in port; and from 10 p.m. to 1 a.m. on sea days. The cost is $5 per hour, per child, and $3 per hour for siblings.

Fellow Passengers

The majority of passengers are American. The balmy Caribbean itinerary also attracts Brits looking to escape the winter cold. The ship, with its whirlwind of activities and impressive amenities, enjoys a broad appeal across age groups. Children and teens are out in force during school holidays.

Dress Code

Casual dress is a very popular aspect of "freestyle cruising." Formal wear (black tie or dark suit for men and evening gown or cocktail dress for women) is optional during one formal evening. On our trip, about a quarter of passengers got dolled up in gowns and tuxedos. Even in the ship's most elegant restaurant, Le Bistro, diners donned resort casual attire, which translates into polo shirts and khakis for men, and sun dresses or skirts and blouses for women. After 5:30 p.m., jeans, T-shirts, shorts, tank tops and bare feet are not permitted in the restaurants.

Gratuities

Each passenger is automatically billed $10 a day, which supports an incentive program for the service staff (children ages 3 - 12 are charged $5 per day). Guests who prefer to tip individually can fill out a form at reception. A 15 percent gratuity is automatically added to spa services, fitness classes, and bar drinks. For passengers using concierge and butler service, NCL recommends a gratuity "commensurate with the services rendered." The bill can be paid in cash, or by credit card or traveler's checks.

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